DON’T Start Your New Mini Excavator Yet! (Must-Do Setup Checklist)

Before you put your brand-new mini excavator to work, there are a few things you should do immediately — ideally before you even start it. In this video I walk through my pre-start checklist for my H15R mini excavator, and these steps apply to most Chinese mini excavators (AGT-style machines too). The big surprises? Dry grease lines, questionable factory fluids, and bolts that need checking before your first real work session. ✅ What I cover in this video Remove panels/seat for full access Engine oil: keep as break-in oil or change now When to change engine oil (5–10 hours) Hydraulic fluid: why I recommend changing it early Check the hydraulic tank screen / pickup Tighten bolts while everything is open Grease the machine properly (don’t assume the factory did) Slew (swing) bearing grease line test Ring gear / swing motor gear grease line test Replace hard-to-reach grease fittings (M10 x 1.0) Add magnets to the hydraulic tank (cheap insurance) How I’m planning the first outdoor test run (leaks, thumb, cushion valve) If you’re setting up a new mini excavator, this checklist can save you from early wear and expensive headaches. 👍 If this helped, hit subscribe — next video is the first full function test and dial-in. Are you diggin’… or are you fillin’? — Jeff Transcript: 00:00 Before you run your new mini excavator, stop. There are a few critical checks you should do first. 00:13 If you just bought a Chinese mini excavator like my H15R, this pre-start checklist can save you problems later. 🔧 Mods Already Installed 01:09 I added a hydraulic thumb, greaseable pins, and quick hitch pins. 02:01 I installed a swing motor cushion valve to reduce shock load and smooth operation. 02:49 I added a hydraulic cooler and filter. Filter placement debate doesn’t matter—run a filter. 04:26 I installed a fan, muffler heat blanket, fuse block, voltmeter, and a digital hydraulic temperature gauge. ✅ MUST-DO Pre-Start Checklist 05:34 What should you do immediately after delivery? 1️⃣ Open It Up 06:16 Remove panels, seat, and covers. Get full access to the engine and hydraulics. 2️⃣ Engine Oil (Break-In Plan) 06:38 Check engine oil. If it looks clean, you can leave it as break-in oil. Change engine oil at 5–10 hours. Break-in debris will contaminate it. After that, run your preferred oil. I use Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic. 3️⃣ Hydraulic Fluid 07:30 I recommend changing hydraulic fluid early. This H15R has no drain plug—use a transfer pump. Treat the new fluid as break-in fluid. Change again around 50 hours with a new filter. Then follow a longer service interval (around 200 hours depending on use). 4️⃣ Tank Screen Inspection 08:53 Remove the hydraulic tank cap. Check that the pickup screen is threaded in tight. Some arrive loose in the bottom of the tank. 5️⃣ Monitor Hydraulic Temps 09:42 The factory gauge is hard to read. Install a digital hydraulic oil temperature gauge so you can see temps from the seat. Oil breaks down faster above 140°F. At 150–160°F, shut down and cool off. 6️⃣ Tighten Bolts 10:54 Check all accessible bolts while panels are off. Pay special attention to swing motor bolts. Use threadlocker or Nord-Lock washers if needed. 7️⃣ Grease EVERYTHING 11:32 Do not assume the factory greased it properly. There are two critical grease lines: Slew (Swing) Bearing 12:13 Remove the grease line and pump grease through it. On mine, the line was bone dry. If the line is empty, grease won’t reach the bearing. Grease in stages while rotating the house in quarters. Ring Gear / Swing Gear Teeth 16:05 Test the second grease line feeding the gear teeth. Mine was also dry. Fill the line before normal greasing. 8️⃣ Grease Fittings 18:02 Replace hard-to-reach zerks. On this machine, fittings are M10 x 1.0. Bent fittings can improve access and ensure proper lubrication. 9️⃣ Magnets in Hydraulic Tank 22:37 Add magnets near the bottom of the hydraulic tank to catch ferrous debris. Cheap insurance. Won’t catch aluminum, but it doesn’t hurt anything. Mount externally near the bottom if internal placement isn’t practical. ✅ Final Checklist 26:18 Open panels for inspection Check engine oil, change at 5–10 hours Change hydraulic fluid early, again at 50 hours Confirm tank screen is tight Fill dry grease lines (slew bearing & ring gear) Tighten bolts (especially swing motor) Grease entire machine Replace poor-access fittings Add magnets if desired 28:19 Next video: full function test, leak check, cushion valve adjustment, and hydraulic thumb test. 31:08 This is Jeff with the Jeffscavator channel — are you diggin’… or are you fillin’?